Some call him the “God-father of denim”; others know him as Adriano Goldschmied. His passion and innovation have paved the way for designer denim and have remained unparalleled in a distinguished career spanning over 35 years. Goldschmied took the jean from work wear and made them fashionable, a style of life available to everybody. He fuses his admiration of high fashion glamour and vintage sensibility, resulting in cutting-edge designs. Goldschmied, now Founder and Creative Director of GOLDSIGN, personally oversees the private laundry where each and every pair is made. His unpredictable ideas and experimental concepts result in a luxuriously casual and rare denim collection. GOLDSIGN has become one of the most exclusive designer denim brands, quickly earning a reputation among fashion influencers including Gwyneth Paltrow, Angelina Jolie, Katie Holmes, Sharon Stone, Charlize Theron and Rachel Weisz. GOLDSIGN is distributed in upscale specialty stores worldwide such a Net A Porter, ShopBop, Nordstrom, Stanley Korshak, American Rag, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Estination, Amarees, Henry Lehr and more.
Goldschmied’s denim knowledge and history in the industry is unmatched. He hails from the italian port of Trieste and opened The King Shop in 1970 in the ski resort of Cortina D’Ampezzo followed by the launch of “King’s Jeans” and “Daily Blue”. Eight years later he founded Diesel, bringing in Renzo Rosso, who he mentored, as a partner. Goldschmied was instrumental in the development of other successful European brands including Replay, Goldie, Evisu, and Rivet. In 1980 he formed “the Genius Group”, a think tank of the most artistic and influential minds in the fashio industry including Katherine Hamnett, Betsey Johnson, Paul Harvey, David Mantey and more.
In 1993 he began manufacturing his signature line “A Gold E”, in Los Angeles. His subsequent venture, “AG Adriano Goldschmied”, founded in 1996, won Sprtwear International’s Best Womens’s Jeans award for 2002 through 2004. Goldschmied went on to create the luxury denim label GOLDSIGN in 2005, elevating premium denim to new heights. In 2007, GOLDSIGN merged with Citizens of Humanity, bringing Goldschmied in as a partner and Executive President of Product Development also designing the men’s denim collection with Jerome Dahan. Goldschmied says: “I like to push the envelope because sometimes you don’t know what the limits are until you have passed them”.
WHAT ARE YOU CURRENTLY WORKING ON?
For years I have been trying to take denim to the next level by being more integrated in the luxury design segment with a lot of innovation in fabric. The first step was the introduction of the super stretch but now it is more about the new cellulosic fibers that are basically originated from wood. These fabrics include Rayon, Modal, Promodal, Tencel, and most important, Cupro. When these fibers are mixed with cotton, the denim becomes softer with more draping, so they are much better for fashion denim which is so important today. In addition to this, I am working on ecological projects both at our laundry facility as well as in the fabrics. At the laundry we are trying to make the process cleaner by using less chemicals, less water and less energy. In the fabric category we are using these new cellulosic fibers, recycled cottons as well as a special polyester that is generated from recycled plastic bottles.
WHERE DO YOU SEE DENIM GOING NEXT?
In the past, denim was only about the classic 5–pocket denim jean. Today we are taking denim to a different level, it is more united with the other categories of the fashion business and has a lot of influence in other non-denim products.
WHAT CAN BE TAKEN FROM THE PAST?
The past is a never ending fountain of inspiration in terms of fabrics, washes, details and looks. Research into vintage is still a very important part of a designers work, however, today the way we do it has completely changed. The past has become more of an inspiration in the contemporary fashion direction so we have to interpret and change our thinking to the future instead of just looking at the past. The perfect replica of a vintage jean is just not “cool” anymore. The customers are asking what is next and where are the fashion ideas coming from.